It was good to be back in Puerto Natales. At the hostal I overheard several people saying the pass would take at least 9 days - more likely 10. At this I laughed, feeling pretty good about doing it in 5, but wishing I had more time do it in 7 or 8, so that I could appreciate the scenery more.
Instead of a hot meal that night I bought bread and pears and fell asleep early. I woke up angry - angry that the springs in my bed were poking out of my mattress and into my skin like some sort of torture device. Half naked and half asleep I wandered downstairs and asked Taj - a californian helping out at the hostal for a month - for a new bed. Instead he flipped my mattress, I lied that it felt better, and barely got any sleep that night.
The next day a good breakfast of omelette, homemade sweet bread and real coffee (up until now I have been drinking the Chilean staple - instant nescafe) made up for the horrible night of sleep. Today I would board the bus down to Punta Arenas, so I made one last stroll through town, stopping at my favorite bakery - Pan Pa Ya for heart-shaped pastries, and mailing my postcards, which had done the circuit with me.
I boarded the bus to Punta Arenas happy, tired, and ready for the next leg of this adventure. Little did I know the next leg would be one of the most stressful....
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